TWO ROAMADS

Miles. Moments. Memoirs.

A night in the desert

The usual elements of a desert safari — dune bashing, belly dancing, fire shows or Tanoura performances — were not part of this experience. We had long wanted to spend a night in the desert, yet hesitated each time we browsed the options. Most operators seemed to offer variations of the same itinerary, lively and crowded, with little to distinguish one from another.

A breakfast drive with Platinum Heritage some months earlier provided clarity. Their emphasis on conservation and quieter experiences stayed with us. After some deliberation, we chose their overnight stay within the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve.

Pickup from the city was seamless, and within an hour the skyline had given way to open desert. At the reserve entrance, we were handed reusable water bottles and traditional headscarves. From there, guests could choose how to proceed to the Bedouin camp. We opted for the heritage experience — an open-top vintage Land Rover, moving slowly along designated tracks.

The drive was not about adrenaline but observation. Our guide spoke of desert flora and the quiet resilience of life in this landscape. We paused occasionally for photographs, though the vastness resisted being contained within a frame.

A longer halt came at sunset. As the light softened over the dunes, we watched a brief falconry demonstration while sipping cinnamon tea. Falconry, deeply rooted in Emirati heritage, was once a practical hunting method and remains an enduring tradition. The trainer demonstrated the bird’s precision before gently covering its eyes with the burgu, allowing it to rest again.

Our guide, Lionel from Colombia, drove with quiet assurance — professional, measured, and never inclined to over-explain. His commentary was matter-of-fact, allowing the desert itself to hold attention.

At camp, Arabic coffee and dates marked our welcome. The evening unfolded at an unhurried pace — bread-making over open flame, coffee preparation, a short camel ride, henna painting. Nothing felt staged or rushed.

Dinner was traditional and generous. The non-vegetarian dishes stood out, particularly the lamb ouzi, slow-cooked and fragrant. As darkness settled, drumming began and Yolla dancing followed. Throughout, our guide moved quietly between guests, attentive without intrusion.

Our stone tent was simple but comfortable. There were no showers, and the rooms were not air-conditioned — worth noting outside the cooler months — yet the absence of excess felt intentional. Comfort came instead from the stillness.

We woke early to birdsong and stepped outside as dawn thinned the horizon. Hot air balloons rose in the distance, drifting silently above the dunes — something we promised ourselves we would return for. Breakfast was relaxed, and by late morning the city reappeared, as it always does.

The experience stayed with us, not because it was filled with spectacle, but because it was thoughtful and restrained. It felt, in its quiet way, like the right way to spend a night in the desert.


From our trip

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