We arrived in Tbilisi a little past midnight. After a few hours of much-needed rest, we were back on the road early the next morning, beginning our journey west towards Kutaisi — over 200 kilometres away — with several significant stops planned along the way.

We started later than originally intended, which led to a brief conversation in the car about priorities. Gori lay directly on our route — the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, with its museum, preserved railway carriage, and childhood home. It is a popular stop for many visitors, but we chose to skip it without much deliberation.

It wasn’t a judgement on history. Rather, it was a sense that this day was already full, and history presented through museums — especially centred around a single individual — wasn’t what we were seeking just then. Georgia, at least on this first day, felt better encountered through landscapes, old towns, and places where history still lingered in stone and space rather than behind glass. The road ahead offered plenty of that.

Mtskheta — Georgia’s Spiritual Heart

Our first stop was Mtskheta, around 25 kilometres from Tbilisi. In Georgia’s early history, two major kingdoms shaped the land — Colchis in the west and Kartli (also known as Iberia or Iveria) in the east. From the 3rd century BC until the 5th century AD, Mtskheta served as the capital of Kartli, making it one of the country’s most important historical centres.

Today, Mtskheta is regarded as the spiritual heart of Georgia. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is home to some of the country’s finest medieval religious architecture and is often referred to as the Holy City. It was here, in 337 AD, that King Mirian III declared Christianity the official religion of the kingdom — a decision that continues to shape Georgian identity. The city also remains the headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox Church.

Geographically, Mtskheta’s location is striking. It lies at the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers, a strategic and fertile setting that made it an important settlement from ancient times and a notable stop along historic trade routes.

Jvari Monastery — Where Geography and Faith Meet

Perched on a hill overlooking the river confluence is Jvari Monastery, one of Georgia’s most iconic religious sites. Built in the shape of a cross — which gives it its name — the monastery dates back to the late 6th century and is a fine example of the tetraconch architectural style common across Georgia and the Byzantine world.

According to tradition, Saint Nino, who introduced Christianity to Georgia, erected a wooden cross on this hill — once the site of a pagan temple. The cross was believed to work miracles and drew pilgrims from far and wide. A small church was built here in the 6th century, followed by the present structure.

The interior is modest and bears the marks of time, but it is the setting that leaves the strongest impression. The sweeping view over the meeting of the rivers below, with Mtskheta spread out in the distance, is unforgettable. The hill is windy year-round, something worth being prepared for, and the short walk from the parking area adds to the sense of arrival.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral — The Living Pillar

Back in the town below stands Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, one of the most significant religious buildings in Georgia and an architectural masterpiece of the Early Middle Ages. It is the second-largest church in the country, after the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Tbilisi, and also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The cathedral is steeped in legend. According to tradition, a local man named Eliazar brought back a fragment of Christ’s tunic from Jerusalem. His sister Sidonia, overcome with emotion, clasped the tunic to her chest and died. Unable to remove it, she was buried holding it. From her grave grew a cedar tree, later used to construct the cathedral. One of the columns carved from the tree is said to have risen miraculously into the air, exuding a liquid believed to have healing powers — hence the name Svetitskhoveli, meaning “Living Pillar”.

Within the cathedral grounds are also the tombs of several Georgian kings, including King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi. Subtle details, like a rare zodiac circle and an early sundial shaped like a peacock on the exterior wall, add further layers to the experience.

Uplistsikhe — The Cave City

From Mtskheta, we continued towards Uplistsikhe, an ancient rock-hewn town whose name translates to Fortress of the Lord. Situated on the rocky banks of the Mtkvari River, Uplistsikhe dates back nearly 3,000 years, with layers of history stretching from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages.

Once an important political, religious, and cultural centre along the Silk Road, the complex spans around eight hectares and is divided into lower, middle, and upper sections. Narrow passageways, tunnels, and staircases link temples, halls, and dwellings carved directly into the rock.

At the highest point of the site stands a stone basilica built in the 9th–10th centuries, marking the transition from Georgia’s pre-Christian past to its Christian present. Archaeological excavations here have uncovered jewellery, ceramics, and sculptures, many of which are now housed in the National Museum in Tbilisi.

Walking through Uplistsikhe felt less like visiting a ruin and more like moving through layers of time — a place where geography, belief, and daily life had once converged.

By the time we left, the day already felt full. We still had some distance to cover before reaching Kutaisi, but the first day had set the tone for the journey ahead — one shaped not by trying to see everything, but by choosing carefully what to experience.